Week 5-6 Pictures

Not that many since I didn't go anywhere

Oct 9, 2009

Week 5-6

The last two weeks have been a bit of a blur. After returning from Sicily, I was thrown right into 2 and 3 October-- what essentially amounts to Leiden's independence day. A good description of this phenomenon is hard to give. Imagine over-population, a full scale carnival, a lot of live music tents, even more beer tents, total disregard for the laws of public decency and littering, and a slightly perceptible tension between the locals and the out of towners. The festivities last all day and all night. There were two parades: one on Friday for the local clubs, schools, and citizens, and one on Saturday with a revolving annual theme (this year was the American Dream, ironically for me). Apparently this weekend is one of 3 occasions where Dutch national pride is on display. The others are Queen's Day, engineered for that purpose, and Dutch international soccer matches. Apart from these 3 exceptions, the Netherlands is a decidedly un-nationalistic country. I am glad to have experienced it at its fullest.

School is clicking along. We turned in formal thesis proposals last week and were assigned advisors based on our topics. I met with mine, and he seems cool enough. I've definitely settled into a rhythm when it comes to schoolwork, although now it seems that rhythm will have to be adjusted to account for independent thesis research. Lame.

I had, perhaps, my most fun night out this past Thursday in Leiden. The bar is called Roebels, and though I'd been there before, it just seemed better this time. We played dice games on the bar, leading to some hilarious interactions with some of the Dutch patrons of the establishment. Ended up meeting the owner of the place and hanging out well past closing time with about 30 others. If I had to choose a regular spot in town, this would be it. Everyone is young, fun, and seemingly unstressed by academic or economic crises.

I went back to the beach Friday, because it was just too nice out to pass up. The place was empty, making it even better than before. Took the opportunity to do a nice workout in the sand and enjoy the view over the ocean.

Next weekend will mark the return of the nomad as I venture into Germany and the Czech Republic. Really looking forward to that trip, and the week off of school that will follow. Hope everyone is well.

Week 4 Pictures

Sicily

Week 4

Week 4

High Ho. High Ho.

Off to work I went. Had a lot to do before friday to earn the weekend's big payoff... SICILY!!! That's right, my first big intra-european voyage came in week 4. But I'll get to that later. I was returned my first historical methodology essay, and, to my delight, I got an 8 (roughly translating to an A-). Discussions went well, and I think my arguments were well received overall. My other classes went fine as well. Blah blah blah.

Chickaro is in town!! So nice to have an American friend to hang with. For all our "crass and uncultured" ways, state-siders certainly know how to take advantage of our opportunities. I took Chickaro to the Burcht and L.K.V. de Spartaan to do some working out on Wednesday and around the city to do sight seeing on Thursday. He headed to Bucharest, Hungary for the weekend to explore things further east and got back this morning with stories to tell.

On another front, my program organized its first real social event, a pub crawl through Leiden, on Thursday night. This was very fun because it was the first time I really got to see most of these people away from the classroom or the library. And, thank god, everyone likes to drink. We went to The North End (English pub), where they apparently serve the only good Guiness in Leiden. From there we went to Roubels, a Russian themed bar that was very cool and tucked away. Their specialty is some large shared concoction that is served in a cocktail shaker and split into shots. Then, we went on to de Brandery, a place right across from my apartment that I have frequented and enjoy. I feel like I spent time talking to every person in my program apart from the group for at least a drink or two, thus getting small insights into where they come from, where theyre going, what their interests are, etc. I now feel more like a part of a group than I member of a class.

However, I couldn't stay out too late with the crew because I had to catch a train and a flight to get myself to Palermo the next day. What an adventure this was...

I got off the plane, left the airport, and walked right into the arms of my grandmother, who was patiently trying to obtain information from the traffic director in very broken italian. We met my grandfather at the car just down the road and off we went.

The place we stayed was very cool, and very old world. Doubling as a farm, restaurant, and local cheese expert, this "resort" was amazingly well run. There were cottages for each family staying on the grounds, and a large patio and dining hall where we could all congregate. They also had a pool, tennis court, and made fresh bread every morning in a wood burning stove.

That first night, we went to Marsala to check out the salt flats where Sicilian men have been producing the same, pure, sea salt for hundreds of years without the help of any industrial machinery. This was waaay more interesting than it sounds. I have pictures to prove it. Afterwards we ate a nearby seaside restaurant. The food was phenomenal, and, as would be a consistent trend, endless in quantity and time for enjoyment. we didn't start eating til 8:30 and didn't leave until 10:20.

Saturday we went to Erice, a mountain town overlooking Trapani. This place is the real deal. We had to take a cable car to get there, because the mountain it's on top of is 3000 feet above the valley floor (I considered trying to run this, but thankfully thought better of it). We toured the city, which was full of ancient churches and temples, all made of stone, and ate lunch at a cool place in one of the piazzas. The castles that lined the cliffs were the best part of this day. They literally built them on the brink of disaster. The Palace of Venus looks like it's going to fall right off the edge. The views from the top were breathtaking, as you can expect. The landscape Sicily offers is so diverse and well blended, you really can only appreciate it from above.

Sunday we went to Segesta, site of the oldest intact Greek temple (so I was told). It was never fully completed, so it stands without a roof, but the pillars and the facade are in perfect condition. No rubble. No crumbling columns. Just beautifully sculpted stone and plaster painted by a few thousand years of sun and wind. Across the valley, atop a large outcropping is the Segestan amphitheater. Also in a classic Greek mold, this semicircular ancient auditorium was in great condition as well. In fact, they still hold performance there in the summer months. The view from the top is fantastic... definitely beats any AMC or Loews I've ever been to.

That afternoon, we drove to San Vito Lo Capo, which is a major Sicilian beach at the top Northwest corner of the island. My first steps into the Mediterranean Sea were sublime. The water was so warm and perfectly clear. I could've stayed in it all day long.

We made dinner at home the last night and prepared everything for my departure the next day. Leaving was a bummer, since I knew the weather in Leiden was about 20 degrees cooler and without sun. But hey, better to have loved and lost... right?

I managed to do some cool workouts while I was there. They're posted on the other blog: www.crossfitmobile.blogspot.com/

Week 3 Pictures

Week 3

Week 3

Week 3 was all about lemons and lemonade, both in the classroom and on tour.

First, I found out half way through the week that I had been OVER-reading substantially for my research seminar. (I had not noticed the numbered chapter subtexts on the syllabus) I was simultaneously crushed at my own stupidity and wasted time, and seriously impressed that I had been able to over achieve in such a manner. Needless to say, I was quite prepared for the discussion in class.

We also were returned the results of our entrance exam. Happy to report I scored well and am henceforth off on the right foot academically. Buoyed with confidence, I wrote what I think was a pretty decent criticism of early modern religious tolerance and the progress of historical debate on the subject for my Methodology class. I will find out if its actually any good on Tuesday when we review them in class.

More than anything, this week in the classroom was about consolidating what little rhythm I generated last week. I now feel completely comfortable with the amount of time I need to devote to studying, and, by extension, the amount of time I can spend not studying.

Which, in a nice bit of intentional transitioning, brings us to the second lemon life dealt me in week 3. My original intention had been to travel to Munich for the opening weekend of Oktoberfest, stay with my friend's uncle, and really let loose in the fatherland. However, being the inexperienced, under prepared gringo that I am, I did not realize that the discount Eurail pass I had intended on buying for this and future endeavors requires purchase 2 weeks prior to departure. This plain sucked. Another lesson learned the hard way, I guess.

However, not to be deterred, I did the next best thing.

AMSTERDAM!!! Let me say that this is a truly awesome city. I took the train in Friday night to meet up with a high school friend and a few other Americans (30 minutes) and was immediately struck with the beauty of the place. First off, it's ancient. Just like Leiden, but theres just so much more of everything. Unfortunately I got there around 8, so I wasn't able to take as many pictures as is deserved for such a place, but I will go back for a more thorough investigation.

The streets and neighborhoods around the city center reminded me of the french quarter in New Orleans: tight lanes and alleyways, constant bars and restaurants, sooo many people, tons of light, and a tactile energy encompassing everything. After watching the first act of a top flight street performance in front of city hall, we ate at a small restaurant near Dam Square that only offered 3 appetizers, 3 entrees, and 3 desserts. Naturally they were delicious (if you're only serving 3 things you better know how to make them right?) From there we walked along one of the many canals to a cafe/bar that apparently is more local than tourist. Fought for beers, but enjoyed the atmosphere-- everyone takes their beers out of the bar to the sidewalk and drinks outside.

We next made our way through an area that was definitely more tourist than local, and checked into Rookies, one of many true-to-form Netherlands coffeeshops in the neighborhood. (This place is where the tugboat picture came from) Without going into too much detail, this place was a blast. We met some great, funny people from all over, and spent at least 2 hours talking, laughing, and telling stories.

After Rookies, we grabbed some shoarma (mediteranean beef/pita creation) and headed toward the redlight district to see what all the hype was about. Hilarious, is the best word I can use to describe the cast of characters we mingled amongst on this leg of the journey. Price haggling, drunkeness, asian tourists... it was a priceless scene that you need to experience to appreciate.

The best part about Amsterdam is that trains run all night. I was able to hop on the 2am train back to Leiden, catch a nap on the way, and be in bed by 3. I'm looking forward to many more such nights in the future.

Tourism highlights:

See above.

Overall this week was great in spite of some bonehead plays on my part. But, honestly, I think that's just how this adventure may go...

Week 2 Pictures

Week 2

Week 2

Week 2 in Leiden brought with it some new friends, some new adventures, and, most importantly, new classes. That's right, school has begun.

It's funny to think that with all I've been doing and all that's happened thus far, this is the underlying purpose for my being here. After all, my entire class load for the week was 6 hours. 6 hours out of 168! Granted, there were many more spent in the library or in my room reading and preparing for those precious 6, but still... Seems a bit limited for what it costs to attend.

Not that I'm really complaining. As I'm becoming more acquainted with the Dutch way, I'm learning to appreciate the freedom and relaxed nature that seems to be the backbone of their culture. While, I must say, there have been a few administrative hang ups due to a relative lack of expediency and organization on the University's part, overall it's been a breath of fresh air.

In the classroom I couldn't be happier. My first course, a research seminar on the "European Civil War," is led by a very engaging professor who specializes in German history. More specifically, early 20th century German history. So I know we're going to be all over the Nazis and Hitler during the year. Our first class, in fact, he gave a written exam asking a series of questions based on our preparatory reading, most of which centered around Germany's role in nationalizing Europe during the second world war. I can tell this guy is going to be great.

My second course, held just after the first, is a Historical Methodology class. The focus here is to examine the practices of other historians to try and determine whether their arguments have contributed to the progress of knowledge in the field, or whether they're just fluffing the pillow. This class is also interesting, because it's broken into 6 segments, each of which deal with a different historical argument. And for each argument we get a different professor -- an expert in the area. So this could be either great or awful from week to week, based on the argument and what type of person walks through the door to administer. Also, the fact that it's right after the other class doesn't give me much time to readjust my brain.

The third course deals with the development of nations and states in Europe. This feels like the most clinical of the three. A lot of the discussion is going to center around what factors built which empires, and why civilization has eventually come to settle on the current national state formula. This course will also feature a number of professors, depending on the focus of the week. The good news here is that it ties in very well with my first course. The bad news is that it's a ton of reading. For the first class we were expected to read 2 entire books and a selection of articles. Eeker.

All 3 of the courses have no more than 10 students, some part of my program, some not. So, there won't be anywhere to hide. I'm planning on using large portions of my 162 free hours to travel around the continent, just so long as I can read on the train.

Tourist highlights for the week:

The Gravensteen. This building actually houses the international administration office currently, but it used to be the town prison. They would execute convicted criminals in a courtyard just beyond the front desk window, making it a somewhat ominous place for new students to start their academic process. Its a great old building though, very well maintained.

International night at club InCasa. The international student group put together a theme party at one of the clubs in Leiden on Saturday night. Everyone was supposed to dress up like their country of origin. This was great. I wore boardshorts, a t shirt, and my California flag as a cape. There were some really great costumes that I didn't get pictures of since it was so dark. (read: I dropped the ball with the camera)

Noordwijk beach. I hopped on the bus today and visited the coast. Took no more than 20 minutes, and it cost about 10 bucks round trip. It wasn't the best day due to clouds, but I actually found the beach to be pretty impressive. Tons of people kite surfing, great dunes to hike around in, and some good cafes right on the sand.

Hope everyone is living well back home. If you guys want to check out more of what I'm doing back here, I've been running a fitness blog at www.crossfitmobile.blogspot.com/

That's all for now...

First Week Pictures

My First Week

Week 1

Week 1 is in the books. I have to say, it feels like it's been longer. My initial impressions are very positive.

Leiden is a small college town, probably no more than a few hundred thousand people-- over half of which are students. Luckily it went almost completely untouched during the World Wars, so inside the Leiden Centrum (essentially the guts of the city) is full of buildings from the 18th century and earlier. There are 3 massive churches, a beautiful theater, and a half-original, half repaired gargantuan city hall. The town is lined with rivers and canals that you can move through by boat, kayak, or canoe. Or, if you just want to hang by the water, there are countless cafes, some of them floating on barges, lining the edges. All the streets are cobbled with stone or brick, and there are endless tight alleyways that one can only navigate on foot or by bike. Oh yeah... EVERYONE bikes here. It's absurd. There are separate traffic laws for bikers that supersede those of drivers. It's actually a little dangerous to walk if you're not paying attention because there is such a constant flow.

Anyways, perhaps the most charming part about this place is it's utter lack of big business. Every one of the aforementioned alleyways has countless restaurants, pubs, and shops; all of which seem quite content not to adhere to the standard ethos of competition. Nobody is open on Sunday. Few are open before 11 on any other day. And the number of holidays I've already been advised are on the horizon is staggering. It truly is a semi-capitalist marketplace.

I am living on the Hooigracht, which is a main thoroughfare in a great neighborhood near the center of town. My building is an old hospital, so the rooms are large and the hallways long. We are also under the shadow of one of the 3 churches, Hooglandsekerk, so my view never gets old. I've now figured my way around for the most part, but early on it seemed I was getting lost and found a few times per day. There is no logic in an unplanned city, I've learned. Streets curve without your knowing it, they're rarely well marked with signage, and they change names all the time.

Tourist highlights for the week:

The Burcht. This is an ancient protectionist, castle-like structure just up the alley from my place. It was built waaaay back in the day as a fortress the town would retreat to in case of invasion, disease, etc. It sits atop a manmade hill, and is essentially a large, tall circle of stone. It's very cool.

The Hague. I hopped on the train and went to the Hague Sunday with a few of my neighbors. It's only 10 minutes from Leiden and houses a few very famous museums, the Netherlands Parliament building, and the International Criminal Court building.

Unnamed sandwich shop. 4 days in a row i went to the same sandwich shop. a) because it was that good. b) because it was that cheap. Definately nice to have a go-to lunch spot already.

I think thats going to be all for now. I'm going to try to figure out how to post the pictures I took this week to the blog as well. There's not too many-- still figuring out the camera. I miss you all. Talk soon.